BW Confidential - Issue #10 - May/June 2012 - (Page 82)

Last word Guest column Multi-cultural beauty In our guest column, Paris-based consultancy Metis Insights director Stéphanie Morou shares her views on how the industry should cater to ‘ethnic consumers’ credit: stock.xchng Captive consumers Since 2005 the global ethnic beauty market has been growing at a fast pace. In the US alone, growth of this segment came in at 52% between 2005 and 2010. There is increased demand for products suited to ethnic skin and for ranges as sophisticated as those designed for Caucasian women. With growth of the African, African-American, Hispanic and Brazilian populations, the demand for specific products targeting darker skins is rising. And while major brands face a saturated market in the traditional beauty arena, the ethnic beauty market offers substantial opportunities. Upcoming trends Ethnic consumers are proud of their skin tone. They don’t want to be hidden under a fairness cream anymore—on the contrary, they want healthy skin that looks nearly make-up free. In Brazil as in Africa, there has been the emergence of the culinary aesthetic, with fresher cosmetics consumed in every form: it is a story of health and prevention. In warm climates, a “day & night” gesture is being adopted with anti-evaporation moisture products, such as Garnier’s enriched body moisture formula, which is said to hydrate the skin for seven days. Continuous hydration is formulated for make-up too, to absorb sebum, and allow a glowy effect, but with a dry touch. The so-called ‘ethnic’ consumer has never been so demanding. For too long the target of harsh, chemical products, these consumers now demand safe beauty items. They are now more concerned about green products that are glamorous and they embrace contrasts: organic, sulfate-free products for the hair and neon effects for nails. From hair to toes, from ideas to identity, the inside/out philosophy is driving innovation. 82 For too long the target of harsh, chemical products, [ethnic] consumers now demand safe beauty items “ Metis Insights director Stéphanie Morou Influences from other industries It’s not new for the beauty industry to take inspiration from culinary art, but some adaptations are surprising. For example: wine-scented deodorant, which is said to enhance sex appeal. Another influence comes from travel or small packaged items. For example, single-doses are sometimes preferred to deliver the right amount of product for daily application or for those moments when the skin needs moisturization most. Skincare brand Rodan + Fields encapsulated its Anti-Age Night Renewing Serum and each capsule has one dose of peptides and retinol as this format preserves the active ingredient, therefore making the products more efficient. ” New retail directions Brands should consider tutorials and sales over the internet more seriously. As heavy consumers of cosmetics, “ethnics“ are fond of the internet and beauty blogs. Since their first initiation to make-up and skincare usually comes at the recommendation of a close relative, the peer-topeer exchange is still the most influential motor in the purchase of beauty products. So tutorials, step-by-step videos and celebrity endorsement are very effective, for example, Covergirl’s stepby-step video of make-up artist Pat McGrath. MAC got ‘double credit’ by associating the African-American Nicky Minaj and Latin singer Ricky Martin with Viva Glam for their new daring look, which also supports the AIDS cause. Also in terms of distribution, online pharmacists and dermatologists’ websites should be taken into account. One trend is doctor-branded and recommended skincare sold online. When doctors suggest that patients buy their own skincare lines, it feels like the ultimate endorsement. Partnerships or co-branding with websites or experts specialized in dark skins helps. They have their finger on the pulse when it comes to beauty, as late acne, hyper pigmentation and brown spots are the daily concerns of dark skins. And more patients are researching skin conditions online. One example of a company doing this well is Ebony magazine, which proposes an iPad app that allows users to get beauty advice and guidelines according to skin tone and mood. What the industry should watch out for As ethnic consumers consider beauty as a reflection of their inner state, they buy cosmetics not only for an immediate benefit, but because of the claims they make. The industry should watch the promises they make and foster broader social causes. n Metis Insights is a Paris-based multi-cultural and trend forecast service for fashion and beauty professionals. May-June 2012 - N°10 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #10 - May/June 2012

- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Clinique global brand president Lynne Greene
Insight: Skincare
- Category overview
- Retail technology
- Retail viewpoint
- The latest trends
- Spas & healthcare
- Spa case studies
- Inspiration from Apple
- Store concepts
Market watch: China
- Country overview
- Industry viewpoint
- Prestige retailing
- Taobao & the internet
Digital focus Social media strategies
Strategy spotlight Case studies to inspire
Travel retail: Asia Pacific
- Regional overview
- India
- Interview: Delhi Duty Free Services coo Arun Barathi
Radar Six up-and-coming beauty brands
- Make-up packs
- Innovation showcase
Last word Metis Insights director Stéphanie Morou

BW Confidential - Issue #10 - May/June 2012