BW Confidential - Issue #10 - May/June 2012 - (Page 78)

Packaging Make-up trends credit: istock Prestige packs The trend for a more premium approach to color cosmetics packs continues by Alex Wynne oving on from eco-conception and portability, which still remain key trends in make-up packaging, the words of the moment are “premiumization” and customization. Brands across all segments are asking packagers for more luxurious designs and finishes, as make-up increasingly becomes less of a commodity, and more of a luxury and pleasure purchase. The increase in the number of masstige products on the market is accentuating this trend, as prestige players need to differentiate further to stand out. Interactive packs, which integrate electronic elements are also slowly beginning to trickle onto the market. In line with the trend for differentiation, there is a move away from plastic and back to traditional materials like glass—in jars, pots and bottles for foundations and eyeshadows and eyeliners for example. “The 1990s trend for plastics is going full circle and moving back to glass for sustain-able development reasons, as glass can be recycled, because of the neutrality of glass, as formulas are changing, and because the industry is moving towards more sensoriality as cosmetics become objects of desire that beautify the home,” SGD director of marketing for perfumery and cosmetics Valérie Jacob comments. 78 M “This is especially the case in the premium segment,” she adds. In the US Jacob says that around 70% of foundations on the selective market are now sold in glass containers, while in Europe, that figure is close to 100%.The company is currently working on developing an internal treatment for its containers that means foundation does not adhere to their inside, giving a more luxurious impression. The new treatment will be revealed to brands in the second half of this year. The return to classic materials can also be seen in brushes. “The trend is moving away from injection brushes as the market is now saturated, and back towards filaments,” Dupont Filaments marketing manager Sarah Perreard comments. However, this has not prevented innovation in the moulded brush category, as our innovation showcase highlights. “We have doubled our production capacity over the past two years to cope with demand,” Perreard comments. Making a difference In a bid to create more differentiation from mass, Rexam category manager for cosmetics Carole Grassi says that selective brands are looking for more distinguishing finishes like metal and leather. German brush manufacturer Geka vice president of marketing Pilar Gonzales-Gomez agrees, saying that selective brands are increasingly taking stock packaging and requesting sophisticated surface finishes to make it their own, or for example taking a bottle from stock and ordering an exclusive applicator or cap with it. “We launched 3D surface decoration technology last year that creates optical effects or a texture on packaging,” Gonzales-Gomez explains. She adds that it is now often the brush’s shape or color that differentiates mascara products. According to Rexam’s Grassi, ease of application, nomadism, new make-up gestures and more complex formulas are also key trends and the company is trying to combine several of these factors into its new products. As for regional differences, Grassi says it is a subject the company is studying, as emerging markets take on a more important role in cosmetics manufacturers’ portfolios, although it has not yet developed make-up packaging for specific markets. The main demands for markets like Asia are dictated by the different formulas needed in humid climates, according to industry players, and although this is principally an issue for the skincare market, it can also have an effect on categories like foundation. n n n May-June 2012 - N°10 - BW Confidential

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #10 - May/June 2012

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview Clinique global brand president Lynne Greene
Insight: Skincare
- Category overview
- Retail technology
- Retail viewpoint
- The latest trends
Wellness
- Spas & healthcare
- Spa case studies
Retail
- Inspiration from Apple
- Store concepts
Market watch: China
- Country overview
- Industry viewpoint
- Prestige retailing
- Taobao & the internet
Digital focus Social media strategies
Strategy spotlight Case studies to inspire
Travel retail: Asia Pacific
- Regional overview
- India
- Interview: Delhi Duty Free Services coo Arun Barathi
Radar Six up-and-coming beauty brands
Packaging
- Make-up packs
- Innovation showcase
Last word Metis Insights director Stéphanie Morou

BW Confidential - Issue #10 - May/June 2012