BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 28

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The inside view on the international beauty and wellness industry September 2-15, 2010 #21

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BW Confidential delivers an electronic publication by email to subscribers every two weeks, with a focus on analysis of major issues facing the international industry, interviews with key players and insight into new trends. Here we bring you excerpts of some of our reports. To see the articles in full log on to our website www.bwconfidential.com
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CONFIDENTIAL
Inside
The buzz
The essential news roundup The retail view Wellness focus

Changing channels
f the industry needed any more proof that retail models are changing and consumers are buying differently, it only needs to look at the launch of the new Mary J Blige fragrance. US company Carol’s Daughter, which developed the scent, took the brave step of launching the fragrance exclusively on TV shopping channel HSN, and so without the US’s traditional launch-pad, the department store. The company can’t be disappointed with the results: in just six hours of airtime the fragrance had sold 60,000 units and broken HSN records for fragrance volume sales. Brands looking beyond traditional distribution is nothing new, but what is interesting is how successful new channels are becoming. Alternatives in the US, such as Sephora and Ulta, may not have the same footprint as department stores, but they are increasingly popular, and their websites are attracting more consumers who may not have a brick-and-mortar version nearby. As for TV shopping, it also has broad reach, provides brand awareness and is considered a lot more cost-efficient than the department store. One brand manager recently told BW Confidential that companies can simply no longer afford to pay for staff at department stores and all the other extras they ask for. And perhaps more worrying for the department store is that brands are now less afraid of upsetting these retailers by dabbling in other types of distribution. Oonagh Phillips Editor in Chief ophillips@bwconfidential.com

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Netwatch
The beauty blog review

Interview
Clinique vp & gm Europe, ME & Africa Jean-Christophe Jourde

Beauty insight
Market outlook

8 11

Store visit
House of Fraser’s Apothecary

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Beauty insight
Creative sampling
A lot more options in sampling are on offer today beyond the basic vial or scent strip. For example, samples can now do more thanks to QR codes. “A sample can be scanned to give the consumer far more detailed information and linked to a video on YouTube that shows more about the product,” explains UK-based Sampling Innovations managing director Mark Lockyer. Linking street sampling campaigns to the internet can also yield results. For example, in May, US-based prestige haircare brand Living Proof launched a three-day bus tour in New York City called Restore the Love. The bus made stops throughout the city providing hair analyses, free samples and styling services. The event was well attended and garnered positive feedback from fans on Facebook.

Bloggers on subscription sample boxes
Given the growth in monthly subscription sample boxes, bloggers are becoming a lot more discerning about which companies they sign up to. Some bloggers have said that those offering a more targeted approach work best, for example companies that focus on a certain product category or seasonal look. The PopSugar Must-Have Box is liked as each month there is a specific theme (for example the Ultimate Beach Bag Box for July). While this box is considered expensive at $35, the price is said to be worth it as the items are plentiful and products are full-sized.

Beauty in Japan
Despite the effect of the earthquake in 2011, the Japanese cosmetics market has been surprisingly stable. Last year, product shipment in volume was down 1.2% versus the previous year to ¥1,405bn ($18bn). However, there is a continuing trend towards cheaper items, which was especially felt in 2009 when the market posted a record plunge. Consumers continue to buy more cosmetics, but at a lower average price; although for 2012, analysts predict a stable trend of price deflation. And retail sales figures from department stores, mass-market outlets and drugstores were positive in the months of April, May and June this year.
28

The Korean market
The fast growth Korea’s beauty market has reported for the past several years has begun to slow. While total sales were up 7.7% to $8.49bn in 2011 and the prestige segment grew by 7.6% to $3.74bn (Euromonitor), this year the market has been less buoyant. By the mid-year period of 2012, the beauty market was estimated to be flat. Perhaps one challenge, at least in the prestige sector, is the rise of competing brands and alternatives to the department store. The mono-brand road shop channel, which is dominated by players including Missha, Etude House and LG-owned The Face Shop, is seeing dynamic growth.
November-December 2012 - N°12 - BW Confidential


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BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview L'Oréal Luxe president Nicolas Hieronimus
Insight: Fragrance
- Category overview
- Regional breakdown
- Retail strategies
- Sampling
- Launch roundup
Wellness
- Clarins' spa strategy
- Spa case studies
Retail
- Chinese shoppers abroad
- Direct sales
- Store concepts
Digital
- QR codes
- Selling beauty online
- Marketing strategies
Market watch: South East Asia
- Regional overview
- Thailand
- Indonesia
- Vietnam
Travel retail
- Industry analysis
- Retailer viewpoint
- New niches
- Retailer factfile
Emerging markets Company profile: Dabur
Radar Up-and-coming beauty brands
Packaging
- Sustainable packaging in the BRICs
- Packs for Chinese consumers
- Luxe Pack preview
Last word Uber founder Sarah Cross
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Cover
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 2
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 3
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 4
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 5
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 6
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Comment
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 8
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Contents
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 10
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 11
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Brand & retail news recap
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 13
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 14
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 15
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 16
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 17
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Companies on the move
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 19
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 20
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 21
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 22
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 23
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 24
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 25
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Take note Market facts, figures & trends
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 27
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 29
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 30
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 31
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 33
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 34
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 35
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Interview L'Oréal Luxe president Nicolas Hieronimus
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 37
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 38
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 39
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Category overview
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 41
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 42
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - EC1
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - EC2
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 43
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 44
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Regional breakdown
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 46
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 47
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Retail strategies
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 49
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 50
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 51
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 52
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Sampling
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 54
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 55
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Launch roundup
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 57
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 58
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 59
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 60
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 61
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 62
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 63
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Clarins' spa strategy
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 65
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Spa case studies
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 67
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 68
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 69
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Chinese shoppers abroad
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 71
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Direct sales
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 73
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 74
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 75
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 76
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 77
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Store concepts
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 79
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 80
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - QR codes
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 82
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 83
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 84
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Selling beauty online
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 86
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 87
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Marketing strategies
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 89
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 90
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Regional overview
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Thailand
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 93
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Indonesia
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 95
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Vietnam
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 97
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Industry analysis
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 99
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 100
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 101
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Retailer viewpoint
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 103
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - New niches
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 105
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Retailer factfile
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 107
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 108
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 109
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Emerging markets Company profile: Dabur
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 111
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Radar Up-and-coming beauty brands
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 113
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 114
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 115
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 116
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Sustainable packaging in the BRICs
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 118
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 119
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 120
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Packs for Chinese consumers
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 122
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 123
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Luxe Pack preview
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 125
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Last word Uber founder Sarah Cross
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 127
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 128
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