BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 98

Travel retail

Industry analysis

Winds of change
As Asian travelers continue to drive momentum in travelretail sales, premiumization and customer service have come to the fore as skincare rapidly looks set to dominate
by Tina Milton

T

he tide is turning for beauty travel retailers, not just regionally but also by category. Globally, almost all regions registered an upbeat performance in beauty last year with most producing double-digit sales growth, according to preliminary data from Generation Research released at the TFWA Asia/Pacific show in Singapore (see table). But most significantly, for the first time, Asia/ Pacific surpassed Europe to become the biggest duty-free and travel retail region by value last year (overall sales in travel retail in Asia Pacific reached $15.9bn in 2011 compared with $15.6bn in Europe). This was mirrored in fragrance and cosmetics, with Asia Pacific topping the regional rankings in terms of growth, with sales up 22.8% on the previous year to $4.72bn, according to Generation Research. No wonder that key operators in Asia polled

by BW Confidential were particularly positive about their sales, which have continued to develop solidly this year despite the influence of political and economic uncertainties of the Eurozone crisis. In South Korea, a booming duty-free market, The Shilla Duty Free, one of the largest operators of airport and downtown duty-free shops,

“

Global travel retail sales 2011* Category Sales % change $bn 2011 2011 vs 2010 +17.9 +17.0
*Preliminary data

Skincare is the core driver for our growth this year, especially from premium brands as a result of increasing and evolving demands of growing nationalities, especially Asian passengers

All categories 46.00 Fragrances & cosmetics 14.04

Nuance-Watson (Singapore) head of merchandising Chillie Por

Source: Generation Research

Global duty-free and travel retail beauty sales by region 2011* Region Europe Asia Pacific Americas Africa
98

Sales % change $bn 2011 2011 vs 2010 5.45 4.72 2.84 0.19 +13.2 +22.8 +15.7 +21.6 -6.6
*Preliminary data

Middle East 0.84
Source: Generation Research

confirms that beauty sales were robust in the first half of 2012 compared with the same period last year, although specific half-year results could not be disclosed at press time. In 2011, beauty sales increased by 25% over the previous year driven by a sharp increase in Chinese travelers who are fast becoming the most valuable customers, taking over from the Japanese. Skincare sales rose 25%, while fragrances jumped 12% and cosmetics grew by 17%, with Korean brands such as The Face Shop logging the highest sales growth—up 58%.

”

At Singapore Changi airport, Nuance-Watson (Singapore) reported close to double-digit sales growth for the year to June compared with the same period last year. Skincare and cosmetics led the pack with double-digit gains and fragrances grew by single digits. Although the impact of European economic instability and the volatility of exchange rates impaired sales growth and spending from the second quarter onwards, Nuance-Watson still anticipates sales will be up by 11% by the end of the year spurred by Asian tourism. Nuance-Watson (Singapore) head of merchandising Chillie Por explains: “Skincare is and will continue to be the core driver for our growth this year, especially from premium brands, such as Estée Lauder, Lancôme, La Mer, Guerlain and Sisley. They are fuelling the rise through their avid response to the increasing and evolving demands of growing nationalities (especially Asians) and a willingness to create new and exclusive products and launches.” Asia’s influence The influence of Asian travelers and specifically outbound Chinese passengers is still so powerful that it continues to drive category growth, particularly for skincare in the Americas, Europe and the Middle East. It is estimated that some $3bn of tax-free purchases are now made by the Chinese. The Chinese are among the passenger profiles pushing sales of high-end luxury products at Dubai Duty Free (DDF), where fragrances ranked among the top-three product categories in the first half of the year. Beauty sales at Dubai International were up 17% in the first half over the same period last year with fragrances enjoying an increase of 16% in value, while cosmetics grew by 18%. Within cosmetics, skincare enjoyed a rise of 20% and color was up 14%.

November-December 2012 - N°12 - BW Confidential



BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012

Table of Contents for the Digital Edition of BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012

Cover
Comment
Contents
Update
- Brand & retail news recap
- Companies on the move
Take note Market facts, figures & trends
Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
Interview L'Oréal Luxe president Nicolas Hieronimus
Insight: Fragrance
- Category overview
- Regional breakdown
- Retail strategies
- Sampling
- Launch roundup
Wellness
- Clarins' spa strategy
- Spa case studies
Retail
- Chinese shoppers abroad
- Direct sales
- Store concepts
Digital
- QR codes
- Selling beauty online
- Marketing strategies
Market watch: South East Asia
- Regional overview
- Thailand
- Indonesia
- Vietnam
Travel retail
- Industry analysis
- Retailer viewpoint
- New niches
- Retailer factfile
Emerging markets Company profile: Dabur
Radar Up-and-coming beauty brands
Packaging
- Sustainable packaging in the BRICs
- Packs for Chinese consumers
- Luxe Pack preview
Last word Uber founder Sarah Cross
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Cover
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 2
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 3
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 4
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 5
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 6
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Comment
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 8
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Contents
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 10
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 11
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Brand & retail news recap
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 13
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 14
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 15
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 16
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 17
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Companies on the move
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 19
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 20
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 21
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 22
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 23
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 24
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 25
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Take note Market facts, figures & trends
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 27
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Best of BW Highlights from our e-publication
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 29
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 30
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 31
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Launches The latest in fragrance, skincare & make-up
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 33
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 34
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 35
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Interview L'Oréal Luxe president Nicolas Hieronimus
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 37
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 38
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 39
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Category overview
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 41
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 42
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - EC1
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - EC2
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 43
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 44
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Regional breakdown
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 46
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 47
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Retail strategies
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 49
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 50
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 51
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 52
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Sampling
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 54
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 55
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Launch roundup
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 57
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 58
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 59
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 60
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 61
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 62
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 63
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Clarins' spa strategy
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 65
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Spa case studies
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 67
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 68
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 69
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Chinese shoppers abroad
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 71
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Direct sales
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 73
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 74
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 75
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 76
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 77
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Store concepts
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 79
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 80
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - QR codes
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 82
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 83
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 84
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Selling beauty online
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 86
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 87
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Marketing strategies
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 89
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 90
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Regional overview
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Thailand
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 93
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Indonesia
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 95
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Vietnam
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 97
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Industry analysis
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 99
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 100
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 101
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Retailer viewpoint
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 103
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - New niches
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 105
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Retailer factfile
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 107
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 108
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 109
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Emerging markets Company profile: Dabur
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 111
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Radar Up-and-coming beauty brands
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 113
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 114
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 115
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 116
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Sustainable packaging in the BRICs
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 118
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 119
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 120
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Packs for Chinese consumers
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 122
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 123
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - - Luxe Pack preview
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 125
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - Last word Uber founder Sarah Cross
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 127
BW Confidential - Issue #12 - November/December 2012 - 128
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